If you have not yet watched 'The September Issue' then not only are you missing out on a fascinating behind the scenes peek into the world of arguably the most prestigious fashion publication ever, but you are missing out on witnessing the true gem of American Vogue-creative director Grace Coddington. Almost every review of the documentary has commented upon Grace's friendly and enthusiastic demeanour, her innate skill and inventiveness in styling and most important of all the extent to which she overshadowed the 'ice-queen' Anna Wintour. The footage of Grace displays her complete involvement in every shoot-from initial research and drawing on sources of inspiration, to her hands-on involvement and almost maternal relations with the models. Unlike Wintour who comes across as cold and abrasive, purely viewing fashion as a business, Grace is completely immersed in the world of fashion as a magical wonderland-styling, for her, seems like a form of escapism, a form of child-like fancy dress and storytelling. This to me, aside from her ability to concoct an amazing look from completely disparate items of clothing, is the essential aspect of Grace's talent; her ability to create a narrative behind each shoot. The models are not just clothes-horses or passive hangers but characters with personality and joie de vivre. You only have to look at the Paris, Je T'aime spread from September 2007, shot by Steven Meisel and featured in the documentary, to see the strong sense of atmosphere which Grace can create:
I also wanted to flag up Grace's talent because she was featured as one of the Icons in issue nine of Lula magazine which was dedicated to fabulous red-heads. Model Karen Elson was Guest Editor and provided the text for the feature on Grace which I think summarises her appeal perfectly:
"When you work with her you realise that the term 'stylist' doesn't apply, she is the life and soul of every shoot. The camera angle, the light, the hair and make-up, the pose, the tug of the dress. Grace has it all inside her mind. She is a fighter of the most elegant kind. Grace will stand up for her convictions in a manner which is purely from the bottom of her heart. She adores fashion but not the whirlwind, glitzy front row which most people perceive fashion to be. Grace understands the power of an image and the timeless and affecting beauty of clothing. She wants every page in Vogue to be epic."
I also have to include two of the shots from Karen's spread in the magazine because she has such a beautiful yet enigmatic face and her flawless porcelain complexion and glossy red hair perfectly suit the gothic yet glamorous styling.
Left- Blouse, skirt and bunny ears from Louis Vuitton
Right-Dress by Proenza Schouler
Skirt and blouse by Valentino
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